Date: Fri, 8 Sep 1995 21:40:55 -0700 Mark Loundy loundy@lightside.com I saw your Web page I'm here at the electronic Photojournalism Workshop in Concord, Calif. with Chuck Gathard and I am very impressed not only by his work, but by the small portion of your work that I've seen. Congratulations on some very fine work. --Mark Loundy

Date: Fri, 15 Sep 1995 06:21:38 -0700 JAMES PS HOWLETT ESQR 100633,332@compuserve Travelling Russia I AM FINDING THE VISA SITUATION QUITE DIFFICULT TO COME TO TERMS WITH I JUST WANT TO GO AND SEE THE TALLEST STATUE IN THE WORLD IN VOLGOGRAD, BUT I AM GONIG TO HAVE TO STAY IN A HOTEL THAT COSTS £50 A NIGHT. QUITE STEAP FFOR A FORMER STUDENT. ARE THER ANY CHEAP PLACES TO STAY THAT CAN PROVIDE VISAS FOR A SHORT TERM STAY? HOW ARE YOU COPING WITH THE SAME SITUATION? ARE YOU ALLOWED TO CAMP? I LOVE WHAT YOU ARE DOING AND AM VERY JEALOUS. Dear James: Save that $350 for your student loan repayment. There are much cheaper and easier ways of getting to Russia. In the last several years, small businesses have been cropping up to deal with the visa problem for foreigners. For a fee -- usually about $60 for a 3-month visa, more for visas of longer duration and multi-entry visas -- you can receive an invitation sent to you or to the Russian embassy in your country* The Travellers Guest House (TGH) in Moscow is a pretty reliable source for getting 3-month invitations, even though both Gary and I had considerable problems with them in getting our six-month, multi-entry visas. But they can send you a 3-month invitation by fax within a couple of days (maybe even that day). TGH's e-mail address is . Send your message to the attention of Nadia, and tell her you want to visit Volgograd. Also put that on your application to the Russian embassy. Ask TGH about cheaper places to stay in Volgograd, or check a guidebook (Lonely Planet comes to mind). I think that there are places you can camp throughout Russia, but with mosquitoes the size of helicopters and the big freeze starting in October, good luck surviving it. Gary and I are staying in private homes on this trip, so we don't have to deal with the expensive-hotel question. And it's a great way to really see how people are living, even if they do get a little freaked out at first when they see our multitude of wires, cameras, computers, etc. We look like the mobile CIA. Anyway, good luck seeing the biggest statue in the world, and check this space later, as Gary and I are planning to stop by the BIGGEST LENIN HEAD IN THE WORLD in Ulan-Ude... Lisa

Date: Thu, 14 Sep 1995 01:01:00 -0700 Danielle Ohayon France Info Advertising in Russia Dear Gary, I'm a french journalist and I want to know what kind of advertising can be seen on the russian channels Can you send me some relevant pictures and comments How many channels have the Kabarovs inhabitants (Chinese ?) ? Best regards Danielle Dear Danielle: TV advertising in Russia is getting to be almost indistinguishable from Western advertising in quality and content. Some TV commercials are even just dubbed versions of the ones shown in the West (You see the actor's mouth saying "Wow! It's so clean!" but the sound coming out is "Okho! Tak chisto!") Most of the goods being advertised are Western: Panasonic, Wrigley's, Head & Shoulders shampoo, Coldrex cold medicine. The well-worn staples of Western advertising -- clucking doctors pointing to floating graphs, computer-enhanced images of stereo systems, and impossibly shapely women taunting young men with a particular brand of gum, shampoo, or whatever -- are now standard fare here. The ads for Russian products are infrequent and generally less polished, sometimes with bad lighting and grainy film quality. In Khabarovsk there are four television stations: one government-run station, two commercial stations, and one a mix of both. Occasionally, if the weather is right, TV's in Khabarovsk can pick up Chinese and Japanese television stations. Western advertising execs would still be horrified to see the intro to the news: the old Soviet-era ticking blue clock is still around. For 20-25 seconds, the screen shows nothing but the clock, counting down the seconds until the news hour. Tick-tick-tick-tick: for an ad exec, it must as maddening as Poe's Telltale Heart. All that potential ad revenue, ticking down the drain! Lisa

Date: Sat, 23 Sep 1995 11:49:40 -0700 Randal Eastman randaleastman@igs.net Congratulations What a wonderful surprise to discover your web site, and how unfortunate that I only found it after you had left Vladivostok! I envy you the time you are taking on your journey, when I did it I only had 7 days and felt like a circus animal in a cage. When will you be in Khabarovsk? Q. for the next Russian you see: What would be their advise to the Quebec nationalists that wish to separate their province from the rest of Canada? Cheers! Randal Dear Randal: We'll be sure to ask a Russian what they think about the situation in Quebec. I have heard a wide range of comments from Russians about the question of Chechen secession: some argue that they should be allowed to secede from Russia if they choose to; others argue that they are a "corrupt and sneaky" people who must be "kept in line". By and large, most Russians that I've spoken with are opposed to the military attacks on Chechnya, regardless of what they personally think about the secession question. Lisa

Date: Sun, 24 Sep 1995 02:58:01 +010 Harv Dickey hdickey@aol.com Did you get this? Lisa, If you ever get this, please send e-mail and say "I received your comment from the WWW." Your Dad Dear dad: Yes, I got your comment on the WWW! Don't you worry, I am taking my multi-vitamins and trying to be in by midnight every night. Are you getting the sound bites okay? Try Netscape instead of AOL and/or Mosaic; that should work better... Lisa

To: Gary@f8.com From: Glenn <72172.150@compuserve.com> Subject: I'm with you Howdy partner, Thanks again for the Kashgar files. I am in Little Rock now with my sister editing the hundreds of rolls we took the past year in Central Asia. Maybe Asele and I should start our own web site on Cent. Asia! Not maybe, we're definitely going to do it. Thanks for the inspiration. You must be writing like a mad woman. Glad to see that you're getting plenty of play. Is this message for your eyes only? Big hello to Gary. Cheerio, g and From: Glenn Mack/Asele Surina Subject: Hello Guys Gary and Lisa hello, We read every corner of the 'Chronicle' and admire your work. It's a brilliant format and we're glad to follow your trip. Stay warm and keep up the good work. Cheers, g and a Dear Glenn: Glad you found the site and are enjoying it! I can't wait to see your pictures from Central Asia, and I assume you took a bunch in Kashgar as well. How's your re-acclimatization to the US after life in Tashkent? Lisa

Date: Thu, 21 Sep 1995 11:46:00 -070 Laura Walker lwalker@violet.berkeley.e I have found you at last. You will not escape again. Hee ha ha hee hee. for Laura Walker: Laura! Okay, you've found the site! Now send us a haiku of your own composition in honor of the occasion. I know you can do it. xoxo Lisa

To: Gary@f8.com From: Francisco Mata (Mexico) Subject: Congratulations Soy un fotoperiodista mexicano y estoy verdaderamente emocionado por ver tu trabajo, me parece una idea sensacional que verdaderamente sienta las bases para la creacion de una nueva manera de hacer fotoperiodismo, ver tu trabajo me motiva muchisimo a realizar una idea similar, animo y te envio un abrazo desde cd. de mexico.

To: Comment@f8.com From: Tony Genco Subject: birthday greetings I am thrilled to have found you on this my 49th. birthday. You can be sure that I will be following you on your trek. Years ago, I was an avid cyclist; in this way, I'll be traveling right along with you. My interest in your trip is great. My wife's heritage is American and Lithuanian. Sometimes I think she is too little Missouri, and too much Vilnius. Thanks for this great opportunity. I'll be on the sidelines as you wend your way to St. Pete ( which by the way, is only 15 miles South of me ). Kudos ............... Tony Genco .... ( on the West Coast of Florida ) Dear Tony, Happy belated birthday! Glad you're enjoying the site. One question: how much Vilnius is too much Vilnius? Lisa

To: Comment@f8.com From: Clinton Cook Subject: great I want to say the reading so far is great, interesting and informative. Nice to see some of the plain people instead of just the leaders.. I will be looking foward to more of the same.. Keep up the good work....clint

From: Virginia Brohard Subject: Relatives Travelmag referrered me to your site. I had posed the question to them about sources to use to locate relatives in St. Petersburg. My sister and I will probably visit Russia this coming spring-'96. Our father was Russian and left in 1917. He was one of 12 children. Do you know of a source(s) to use to locate what might be left of our Russian family in St. Petersburg? I thought that since Lisa Dickey speaks Russian and is apparently quite familiar with St. Pete. she would know of some sources or could direct me to the appropriate place. I would greatly appreciate any info you could give me on this. Our uncle Boris (Slastnikov) was reportedly a retired admiral and was alive in 1969. He was 80 then. Thank you. Virginia Brohard. Dear Virginia: Offhand, I don't know of any local agencies or organizations that can help with the question of finding your relatives in St. Petersburg. And as you probably know, there are no easily accessible private telephone listings for city residents, so just looking up people with the same last name is also not really an option. That said, I do have some contacts in St. Petersburg that may be able to help us with this question. Send a message to me at in mid-November, when we will be getting back to St. Petersburg. I will root around then and see what I can dig up for you. Lisa

Date: Thu, 21 Sep 1995 14:45:04 -0700 David Agar tickboy@islandnet.com The Siberians An interesting novel to read on your journey might be " The Siberians" by Farley Mowatt. I really enjoy "The Lighthouse Keeper" article and photos. Good work. Dear David: Thanks for the suggestion. We have few opportunities to get hold of any good reading material in English here, but I will look for "The Siberians" when I return. We had an unfortunate situation when we accidentally left the few novels we brought in Vladivostok, so when it came time for our two-day Birobidzhan-Chita train trip, we were forced to scrape around to find whatever books we could lay our hands on. Birobidzhan's main book store only had a children's book in Russian and English on fairy tales, but we hit the jackpot when Shelly, one of the young women doing mission work in Birobidzhan, passed along "Charade" by Sandra Brown. Nothing like a trashy novel to make the time fly. Excerpt:"Her heart was already racing with anger. His inflection made it flutter with awakening desire. She wanted to scratch out his eyes while also wanting to melt against him." And it's a New York Times bestseller, no less. Yikes. Lisa

From: Bob Nagy Subject: Style Wow- Great Idea Guys! I've done half way across and back.. Not quite what you thought ehh?-Ehh? My comment is that you should extend the text with each person in the "In their Words" section by about 50% Its very interesting..and you are left wanting more. You could also take some license as journalists and create Verbal "Scapes" for us. Some of the impressions of central asia need to be Transliterated for westerners into familiar metaphoric symbols. Smells..quality of light...etc. Lots of good raw material there. Go Poetic! Have fun You'all! Bob Nagy UT Botany-Austin for Bob Nagy A very wise writer once told me to "always leave them wanting more" -- so it sounds like the "In their words" are just about the right length! Some of the conversations with people just naturally turn into longer excerpts; others jump from subject to subject and it's harder to keep them as a coherent whole. At any rate, I'm finding that the simplicity and directness of people's speech is often more eloquent than the most skillful narrative. Lisa

To: Gary@f8.com From: Bertrand Pecquerie Subject: Gary, Je ne comprends toujours pas comment quelqu'un qui te pose une question sur le Birobidjan peut s'apercevoir que tu lui rÈponds. Dans quelle section peux-tu dire: je rÈponds ý monsieur X qui m'a demandÈ... Sinon, bravo. Cela devient trËs intÈressant. Bertrand

Date: Thu, 21 Sep 1995 21:37:10 -0700 Todd March tmarch@primenet.com From Los Angeles With Luv Pardon mon French, but fan-fucking-tastic! This entire adventure is remarkable. When somebody mentioned it on the Photoshop List page, I though what the hell. It'll kill ten minutes of surfing; little do we know when things are around the corner that can touch and change our lives forever... Dear Todd, Thanks for your note! You may be interested to know that many of the Russians we've spoken with have said they feel that a special simpatico exists between Russians and Americans, more so than between Russians and other nationalities. Many others express the belief that people have basically the same concerns the world over, just altered a bit by cultural differences. One of the most interesting and gratifying things about this project has been finding just how much we have in common with the Russians we meet. As far as helping with the project, maybe you could stick some of that mushu chicken in a ziploc bag and send it post restante to Irkutsk... Lisa

Date: Fri, 22 Sep 1995 13:21:23 -0700 Paul F. Gero PFGero@aol.com what a great idea This is great! It is exactly where I see the future of media...being able to do documentary work, tell stories and then present them in a coherent way--with no limitations such as $$ newsprint. Take care you two and enjoy the rest of the journey. I have to admit, I'm a bit envious ... Paul F. Gero, Gilbert, AZ Dear Paul, Thanks for your note. Is it warm in Gilbert, Arizona? If so, we may be envious of you pretty soon... Lisa

To: Gary@f8.com From: Glenn Mack Subject: Irkutsk Hi Lisa, I imagine things will settle down for you guys when you leave town with Johnny Law on your tail. Listen, you guys are doing better and better stuff every day and no need to shut down the operation just because of a silly little visa problem.Guess it's kind of hard being inconspicuous in Siberia with three tons of electronic equipemnt to lug around. If you need a safe haven in Irkutsk, try the Youth Hostel at Baikalcomplex tel 3952-46-24-37. They're officially part of the IYH system. Give us a report. Keep up the great work.

To: Gary@f8.com From: Glenn Mack <72172.150@compuserve.com> Subject: Logistics Gary hello, Just wondering who decides which pix go on the web site each week. Do you upload all your digital pix and let Chuck and Alan sort it out? Or do you view and edit on location? Give us more text, too. Need to know the nuts and bolts of every day. cheerio, glenn Hey glenn, Glad your tuned in. I have to edit pretty tightly on location because each extra photo I send can add about 10 minutes or more to my upload which adds up fast. Once sent, they become Chuck's baby. He does all the work on the images to make them look as good as they do and obviously Chuck and Tripp have the final call on the edit and lay out. It is a real team effort in the best sense. I'll try to work on including more nuts and bolts. Keep in touch, Gary

Date: Fri, 22 Sep 1995 17:29:10 -0700 erik, lynn,jay alexis@sirius.com COOL!!!!! Yo gary...sorry i didn't get to meet you in paris while i was there but after erik told me of your new adventure, i thought i would check it out anyway they are here looking at the page so far...its great. when you return if you need bitchen' prints maybe we can work out something. everyone says hi and good luck!!!!! Hi erik, lynn, jay. Greetings from Chita. Now that you found us don't touch that dial! Hope to be in SF once this project is complete. Look forward to seeing you all. GM

Fred Ward fred@csgi.com congratulations Congratulations. I had the feeling today that I was looking at the future of photojournalism. Your cutting-edge concept is state-of-the-art and high quality. It will be a pleasure to follow your odyssey. Fred Ward Black Star Fred, Thanks for the compliment. This is a real learning experience for us all. We certainly appreciate your interest and continued feedback. Regards, Gary

To: Gary@f8.com From: David Friend/LIFE,N.Y. Subject: Reaction to site Wonderful, innovative use of the medium. Bob Pledge and Tripp Mikich had both recommended that I took a look--and I'm glad they did! As strange as it sounds coming from a picture editor, I'm especially taken with the sound files! Very uplifting listening to Hebrew prayers from countless time zones away the day after a Manhattan Rosh Hashona. You're experiment is helping make the world more close-knit and will doubtless open many eyes. Best of luck with it; I'll keep checking up....David David, Thank you for the nice note. The positive feedback we are receiving from industry people like yourself encourages us that we are on the right track. I am sure I am speaking for Tripp and Chuck back in SF as well as for Lisa and myself. Regards, Gary

From: Jeffrey Subject: Update Gary baby - Even on AOL (though now we have an Internet account): cpimages@Pipeline.com What you're doing is totally amazing -- though the 2 sound bites did not work at all -- total hash...Amazing stuff ol' boy...Keep it up! Jeffrey

To: Comment@f8.com From: Ynpress(Armen & others) Subject: Visit us!!! Hi guys!!! We are from Moscow journalistik agency! We whant to ivite you to Moscow in our journalistic party!!! Some times it's very interesting and funny! Write us if you can or can't. ynpress@glas.apc.org By,by!!! We wish to see you soon! Best regards Armen Ter-Minasian(agensy Ynpress) Dear YN Press, So, tell us more about this "journalistic party" -- are there journalistic zakuski and/or journalistic cocktails involved? Thanks for the invitation! Lisa

From: Benjamin Skaught Subject: Vladivostok Our school is participating in an exchange with students from Vladivostok. What can our students expect to see in Vladivostok and what might students from there be interested in seeing in the Hartford, Connecticut area? Benjamin and students: Vladivostok is certainly one of the more picturesque cities in Russia: It's got a scenic bay with small beaches, and it's hills are reminiscent of San Francisco. For those who are interested in military matters, there is a strong military (especially Navy) tradition. The city was only opened to foreigners in 1992, so many local residents still seem pleasantly surprised to meet Americans. If our experience is any indication, you'll have a great time and be able to make friends quickly. What will Russian students be interested in the Hartford area? It's a pretty good bet that just about everything will be interesting: shopping malls, downtown, smaller towns nearby, drives or hikes into the country. For many young Russians, their knowledge of America is derived mainly from the many American movies that come to Russia. Some frequent questions we get are "What is it really like to live there? What do you do in the evenings? Does everyone live in big houses?" etc. In Vladivostok there is no McDonalds or other Western fast-food restaurant, so even a trip to the local fast-food strip will probably be of interest. Good luck and have fun! Lisa

To: Comment@f8.com From: Joanne & Ginta Subject: privet Found your website inspiring. Great idea. Are you traveling with any Russians? Must be fascinating. Are you planning to publish a book when you return? People in Washington would love it. We'll continue to follow your journey. Good luck. Dear j gallo, Thanks for your message. We are not traveling with any Russians, although we are mostly staying with Russians in their homes along the way. It certainly is fascinating, and inspiring in many ways to see how people are making do in a difficult economic situation. No matter what their personal situation, the Russians we have stayed with so far have been unfailingly generous and hospitable. We are certainly interested in the possibilities of doing a book or CD-Rom after the trip is finished, but so far have nothing concrete. Any publishers out there reading this...? Lisa

To: Gary@f8.com From: Linda and Posey Subject: we found you! Hi Gary, We found you all the way in Russia. It took linda a little bit of time to find you but she was persistant and bugging me(posey). how do we find the photographs? We hope you are not an " illegal american" as was mentioned in your last jurnal on the net. We will keep following you send me many messages at sposey@dcascr.wr.usgs.gov Take Care, your sister loves you and I miss you dearly. bye, bye

From: Kent Hite Subject: Your trip I'm enjoying your chronicle and photographs of Russia. I am particularly fascinated by "In Their Own Words." I have a friend in Omsk; when do you anticipate arriving there? Kent

To: Comment@f8.com From: Oleg Boldyrev, Moscow Subject: Thanks a lot That is a great educational effort! Actually, I tried on-line WWW browsing for a first time and met your page. Cool! Thanks again. I'm working for an english-languge paper in Moscow - "Moscow Tribune". Do you think it would be possible to make an wired interview with you and the coordinators of the whole project? We can send you questions and get the answers by e-mail. Again, thanks. Don't be too much upset by those visa problems and other troubles. As you will see, it's possible to get around without too much pain. Best wishes. Oleg Boldyrev.

To: Comment@f8.com From: Darcy Padilla <> Subject: AMAZING...enjoying your travels...thank you.

To: Comment@f8.com From: Ken Kobre Subject: meeting at sybold in SFCh Chuck and Tripp, Good meeting you at Sybold conf. I like your page and will follow it. I will provide a like to the Photoplex (photojournalism the professionals' Approach site http://www.gigaplex.com/wow/photo/kobre/index.htm Keep in touch. We can discuss how you might help state students interestsed in the WEB.

From: Jack Juni Subject: comments I'm fascinated by your ongoing reports and concerned that they stopped several days ago. I hope you are well. Can we help you in any way? I'm especially interested in your visit to the Jewish region and your interviews with the remaining Jews. More details would be much appreciated. I'm amazed that the government supports the teaching of Yiddish in a public school. Is the Jewish Autonomous Region still in effect? Jack Juni

Date: Sun, 1 Oct 1995 20:09:05 -0700 From: David Agar Subject: Emulsions Besides using that digital camera, are you two capturing any images on film? Will we be seeing any color images on the net or are they all black and white? (Don't get me wrong, I love b+w). How is it possible for two people to produce so many articles and images at a constant rate. Don't you two become exhausted. I am really enjoying your work. Thanks. David, In addition to the Kodak DCS digital camera, I am always carrying a Leica M6 loaded with b&w film. As good as digital equipment is, I doubt it will ever replace that same quality and texture you get in a fine b&w print. I am also limited to the number of the 1.1 meg images I can save on my harddrive once we have completed a story. So I try to back up as much as I can onfilm.I don't think you will be seeing any color this time around. This is more ofan aesthetic call rather than because of any technical concerns.It is definitely quite a bit of work-- certainly more than we anticipated. We are going pretty much non-stop from early morning until late in the evening everyday. Unfortunately, the editing of the photography, preparing the material for upload and the actual uploading takes an enormous amount of ourtime. We would much rather be putting more time into producing the material. Yes, we have had a few moments of fatigue but the positive feedback we havebeen receiving helps to keep us very motivated. Regards, Gary

To: Comment@f8.com From: Walt Fini Subject: High Praise This is what the "promise" of the Information Superhighway was all about. What a great concept! I can imagine thousands of schoolkids rushing into their classrooms just to get the latest installment. I have always liked the personal touch in these kinds of efforts, and I think the balance of general info and human interest is perfect. Thank you! Dear Walt, Thanks for the "high praise"! I agree with you that the personal touch is what sets this kind of thing apart from what you usually get in the newspaper; it has been so enlightening for us just to talk with average Russians and find out how they feel about the situation in their country. We have also been surprised to find that most Russians initially can't imagine why anyone would be interested in their opinions. But then when we ask if they would be interested in seeing how average Americans live all across the US, in small towns and big cities alike, most of them then see the appeal. Thanks for your letter! Lisa

To: Gary@f8.com From: Urban Gavelin, KODAK <72610.3122@compuserve.com> Subject: Greetings from EK Gary, Congratulations for being on the way. Looks good so far from what I've seen. Sorry I did not have the chance to get back to you before you left. Looking forward to hear from you soon! Urban Gavelin Eastman Kodak European, African and Middle Eastern Region Lonon

Date: Wed, 20 Sep 1995 08:58:05 -0700 Taryn Merkl tmerkl@umich.edu trip, in general As a former exchange student in Vladivostok and survivor of the trans-Siberian railroad, I am deeply interested in your trip and this project. First, I want to congratulate you on pulling it all off so far; it is a testament to you and to modern technology that this is even possible. Secondly, I adivse you very strongly to take the train for certain parts of your journey. There is nothing like the cameraderie that develops in the close quearters of a Russian coupe over the course of a couple days. You will, inevitably, meet interesting people and have plenty of time to talk with them about their lives and experiences (believe me, they WILL talk). Good luck or, perhaps more appropriate: ni pykha ni pera!! Dear Taryn: Thanks for your advice and encouragement. We are about to embark on a two-day train trip from Birobidzhan to Chita (assuming they let us on the train -- check the Chronicles for details), and expect that we will meet some interesting people along the way. Tune in for our next transmission, when we'll be describing the trip and our arrival in Chita. Lisa

To: Gary@f8.com From: Norman Allen Subject: Hey, Lisa! I'm staying with my folks and finally got on the Internet for the first time. First thing I did was look for you! Kara had told me that y'all were up and running. I don't have much time to write now, but will try again soon. I loved the Lighthouse story! Hope all is well. With envy, Norman. Norman! What a great surprise to hear from you! Glad you liked the lighthouse story; coming from an accomplished writer like yourself, that is a grand compliment indeed. So, have you made the decision to put your stuff in storage and come to St. Petersburg? C'mon, Norman! Think of all the wonderful meals we could have together at the Cafe Bagdad... Write again soon, and enjoy the Washington autumn for me... Lisa

Date: Wed, 20 Sep 1995 07:41:47 -0700 SHIRLEY WARD MULLEN Your Travels in Russia I've really enjoyed the vicarious travel through Russia! My e-mail is: SHIRLEY.WARD.MULLEN@pactel.com Please let me know if you receive this message. I would be interested to hear impressions from the people you meet about their perceptions of the U.S. Thanks much. Shirley Ward Mullen Dear Shirley, Glad you're enjoying the site! We will plan to ask people we meet in Chita what their perception of the US is. Generally, people seem to be very favorably disposed to Americans; some taxi drivers have even refused to take any fare money when they learn where we're from.

Date: Tue, 19 Sep 1995 17:08:13 -0700 David Woodward david@wfu.edu Go to Rostov-on-Don I think you guys should go to Rostov-on-don - it is near Ustan- Yetz and Novachakov in Southern Russia - on the Don River. I went there in summer of '95 and it was the most amazing experience of my life thus far. I took 14 rolls of pictures and are in hopes of posting at least a fifth of them on http://www.wfu.edu/~david/russia The valleys, rivers, people - everything is awsome there - we loved ustan-yetz the best. If you go to Rotov-on-don - you should interview Lena Elenshovoy (I could give here your address) and the Communists who protest outside Gorky Park every so often. Russia is the most awsome country in the world. I'm excited to hear about your adventures there... =) Tell the next russian you see "Yellow Blue Bus" =) Da Cvidania, david Dear David, Rostov-on-Don is not on our route for this trip, but we will, I'm sure, be interviewing some communists along the way and getting their views on what's going on here. But the main question is, what is "Yellow Blue Bus"?! Is that some sort of secret code phrase, like "The watermelon sleeps in the river", or "The toothbrush walks at midnight?" Are you trying to get us in trouble over here? Lisa and Gary (not our real names)

To: Gary@f8.com From: susan sfriedland@usaid.gov Subject: yowzah YOU GO GIRL!!!

Andrey asebrant@glas.apc.org Thanks - I enjoy it ;-) It's fun for a Russian to sit in Moscow and follow you on the Web... Real nice example of what Internet means - will show it to the studentswho study journalism in Moscow schools. Thanks! Andrey Dear Andrey, Glad you like the site. Are you surprised at all by the opinions of your fellow Russians in different parts of the country? Lisa

From: Karim Khamzin Subject: Connections in Irkutsk Hi Gary and Lisa! If you need good photography contacts in Irkutsk may be I can help you.I was press photographer for 12 years in this area. My last job in Russia - phographer of APN agency. At present time I'm living in Toronto, Canada. In Irkutsk you can contact Victor Belevich, photographer. His home phone number is 3952-23-59-23 or you can contact my former boss Sergey Ostroumov (he can speak English). His home phone number is 3952-34-12-92, fax-43-53-11. I am shure they can help you with your wonderful project in East Siberian region.Good luck and wish you success! With Best Regards Karim Khamzin Canadian photographer at present.

From: Karim Khamzin Subject: Family photo from Irkutsk Hi Gary and Lisa! I don't know where you at present time an I hope you can get my message before or while you staying in Irkutsk. I left Russia almost five years ago and since than I didn't saw my wife and my two boys. I'm wondering if you can take their picture and send over the Internet.I hope they will join me here soon.I really miss them and it will be really appreciate if you can help me with it.Their home phone 3952-23-88-34.My wife's name is Irina. I already gave you photographic contacts in Irkutsk and hope it can be useful.Plese do not hesitate contact me if you need help in Irkutsk.It wiil be great if you can provide me your phone number where I can contact you. With Best Regards Karim Khamzin Toronto, Canada

Date: Tue, 3 Oct 1995 19:22:53 -0700 >To: default@f8.com From: peter ford Subject: hello i am the christian science monitor correspondent in moscow, briefly in new york at the cybercafe where i am reading your stories. i would love to see you when you get to moscow. polease get in touch with me this way or by phone at moscow 200-2546 before you arrive. please also get in touch with the friends beside me who took me into cyberspace this evening, chris vail cvail@aol.com and susan meisalas, thruy chris. am loving your stuff, and wish i had got as far east as you are starting. all the best, cheers, peter bibi Dear Peter, Thanks for your message. I am especially intrigued by this cybercafe -- does the waiter bring a laptop with your cappuccino so you can peruse the latest web offerings? Looks like the Internet revolution is now changing the way we drink coffee forever. We will give you a call when we are closer to Moscow, which should be sometime in the beginning of November. Glad you are enjoying the site. Lisa

Date: Fri, 6 Oct 1995 18:09:32 +1000 From: antonina kisliakov Subject: Re: hotel pictures THANKS FOR YOUR REPLY. I HAVE A CLIENT WHO WISHES TO DRIVE ACROSS RUSSIA NAMELY FROM VLADIVISTOK TO MOSCOW AND WE HAVE BEEN TOLD THAT THERE IS NO ROAD BETWEEN CHITA AND BALGOVESHCHENSK. YOU ARE THE ONLY ONES WE CAN ASK WHERE CAN WE OBTAIN MAPS OF THE AREA OR DO YOU KNOW OF ANYONE WHO HAS DONE IT? PLEASE ADVISE WHOM WE CAN CONTACT? INTOURIST CANNOT HELP US AND WE HAVE ALREADY ASKED AROUND . CAN YOU SUGGEST ANYONE? THANKS FOR YOUR HELP. I THINK YOU ARE DOING A MARVELLOUS JOB AND IT IS VERY INTERESTING. GOOD LUCK! BEST REAGRDS. ANTONINA KISLIAKOV> Dear Antonina, Apparently there is a road, although that is probably a generous term for what actually exists. If our trip from Vladivostok to Khabarovsk is any indication, there will be long stretches where there is nothing but dirt and potholes. It's a good guess that any road will be impassable in winter (for obvious reasons) and in spring, when it will be extremely muddy. Driving across Russia may seem like an interesting and adventurous idea, but my guess is that after the first couple days of driving on horrendous roads, with gas stations few and far between, the interest wears off quickly. As far as maps, you should be able to purchase a standard road atlas of the country in a good bookstore. I have book-size road atlas that shows all of the roads as well as where gas stations are located. Lisa

>Date: Fri, 6 Oct 1995 12:19:37 -0700 To: Comment@f8.com From: Mark Kettenhofen Subject: OOORAH! What a great consept of stretching the boundries of our field. I am a U.S.Navy Photojournalist working as an instructor at Defence Information School, Ft. Mead, Maryland and just found your site on the web. I've made it through most of your stories and the writting is wonderful. It is frustrating not having better quality equipment as to get full enjoyment of the images. There are ten photojournalism instructors here at the school and almost all of them were looking over my shoulder at any given time. We are very envious. In 1989 I was lucky enough to be on the first U.S. Navy ship to visit the then Soviet Union in 47-years. We arrived at Sevastopal with thousands as a welcome commitee. What a treat it was to be greeted by some of the nicest people I've ever met. Aside from the stories and pictures you will have, you will undoubtedly finish your adventure with wonderful memories and great new friendships. Best of luck to you both. We will share your trials and tribulations with our students as your trip progresses. FYI, my e-mail is "Kettenhofm @SMTPGATE.Dinfos.osd.mil" With Warm Regards, Mark Kettenhofen Dear Mark, Thanks for your very enthusiastic note! We are excited that you enjoying the Chronicles, and also very pleased that you are sharing them with your students. Considering the incredible hospitality we have been shown here, I can only imagine what the scene was like when you pulled into Sevastopol as the first US ship in nearly a half-century! I had a chance to chat with some of the US sailors who were in Vladivostok for V-J day and in St. Petersburg for V-E day this year, and they had the same thing to say as you: that the Russians were some of the most gracious and warm people they had ever met. It already seems like forever ago that we considered the Russians our enemies. Thanks again for your encouragement. Hope you enjoy our upcoming segments as well! Lisa

>Date: Sun, 8 Oct 1995 07:43:31 -0700 From: Don Starns Subject: 21st century There's the next century just ahead, and the road looks a little rough from here. Does anyone have any thoughts about the future of Russia and its place in the world, or about Russian-American relations in the 21st century? Dear Don, To be honest, most of the Russians we meet are more concerned about how to make it through tomorrow than to the 21st century. Some older Russians express their disappointment -- almost shame -- that their country, which was considered a "superpower" for decades, has become so weak economically. Other than that, people tend to concentrate on their own situations, and the domestic problems of the country as a whole, than on Russia's position in the world. As far as relations with America, the Russians we have met seem to be glad that our nations are friendly, but doubtful that US aid to Russia is providing very much benefits on the whole. Lisa

From: kenneth cukier Subject: equipment hello, i'm an online journalist working on another world media online project - a real time journal of Telecom95 in geneva. here i've been lugging around my laptop everywhere, but i can imagine the problem is much more difficult in your case. how is it that you're coping in terms of equipment? and have you experienced any problems filing your copy from the hinterland? keep up the excellent work, comrades. kenn cukier

From: Norman Allen Subject: Twain Harte Hey, Lisa! That Yura Yura story was great! You're not going to believe this but my folks' home here in the California Sierra is in a town called Twain Harte. Yes! Named for none other than Mark and Bret! Both of them passed through this area and wrote about their time here. How many people living here now have any idea of the origins of the town's name, I don't know. My grandmother used to hate the name because she thought it referred to a heart broken in twain. Having a wonderful time in the crisp clean air of the mountains -- hiked an excruciating 18 miles in Yosemite last week but must head home to DC on Wednesday. Still dreaming of the St.P., language thang. I saw Kara at a Kennedy Center opening and she said I should go but then changed her mind. "Your connections here are too good," she said. Good stuff is happening and I'm afraid Russia will have to wait. Readings coming up in DC and LA and a high school production (!) of my Saint Joan one act. Still, the Neva calls... Hope all is well. Track down and interview those especially interesting people that you know I want to hear about. Norman

Date: Sun, 8 Oct 1995 20:29:23 -0700 From: Debbie Neuhaus I just wanted to let you both know that I'm really enjoying this website. I will try to print quite a bit of it because my daughter will be studying Russia this year in school.Hope you get enough sleep in your travels.Debbie in New Jersey, U.S.A. Dear Debbie, Thanks for your message. I hope that the printout of our material will be helpful and interesting for your daughter -- I can certainly say that it has been an education for us putting it together. Also, thanks for your concern about our getting enough sleep! We do seem to be on the go all the time, and even when there is that rare day when we can "sleep in", our eyes somehow pop right open at around 6:30-7 am anyway... Lisa

Date: Sun, 8 Oct 1995 21:38:45 -0700 To: Russian@f8.com From: Tony Genco Subject: Internet I am curious to know if the Russian "on the street" is aware of the internet and its global significance. Tony Dear Tony, It's safe to say that the average Russian is not aware of the Internet, or if they have heard of it, that they do not realize the extent of its use and capabilities. Most of the people we have explained the site to are absolutely astonished, especially at the idea that we can send photos and sound bites through the telephone lines in their living room. The idea that you can access hundreds of sites and practically limitless amounts of information through a computer and modem also comes as a surprise, invariable leading to the question, "But where is it all located?" Lisa

To: Comment@f8.com From: Luis Albuquerque Subject: Being a photographer myself and wanting to travel the world someday I think this is a great idea. I'm new to this site and have'nt fully discovered it but I'm impressed so far keep up the good work and I hope to see other assignments in the future.

Date: Mon, 9 Oct 1995 09:32:01 -0700 From: Marc B-B I really like the layout and design. The Jewish story is amazing , did you try to have any Jewish sites link to it? I can relate to the visa problem, we were under house arrest for days in Cape Schmidt,they should be careful if they are near any borders. You must be exhausted!!! Marc Dear Marc, The visa situation seems a bit more under control now, thank goodness... On our latest train trip (Ulan-Ude to Irkutsk), we didn't have any problems at all. Let's hope it stays that way. What happened when you were in Cape Schmidt? Did they keep a guard outside where you were staying to make sure you didn't skip town? Apparently if we had been caught by the authorities who were looking for us in Birobidzhan, we would have had to pay a fine and leave town within 24 hours. Our fear was that they may try to send us back to Moscow or St. Petersburg, since those are the only cities on my visa... Anyway, the coast seems clear for now. And yes, we do get exhausted at times, but one thing is for sure: we are being very well fed by our Russian (and Buryat) hosts* Lisa

From: Beverley Neff Subject: What a treat! Hello you two, and the crew back in San Fran. Just had to congratulate you both on the trip and the web site. Very inspiring. Best of luck, and thanks for sharing it all. Don't worry Gary & Lisa, when it starts to get cold there, we'll be feeling the same here.-Beverley, Bridge Lake BC, Canada Dear Beverley, Thanks for the warm words. After our initial scare when it started snowing in early October in Ulan-Ude, things have thawed a bit. We're keeping our fingers crossed that the real cold won't start until later this month... Lisa

To: Gary@f8.com From: stanton a hershman Subject: just a comment/question i read you weekly travels every chance i get. nice job. i noticed that your credits state that you are based in st petersburg, russia. are you a russian citizen or hail from another spot on this small planet? keep up the good work. would love to trade places with you at any time! well wishes stanton

To: Gary@f8.com From: stanton a hershman Subject: comments saw the msg from your Dad. guess that answers my question! how did you ever get stationed in st petersburg?? again, to you and Gary, work well done. i can be packed in an hour if you want to trade places for awhile. stanton Dear Stanton, Thanks for the kind words about the site. I decided on my own to move to St. Petersburg a little more than a year ago. My idea was to see firsthand how the country was changing while bettering my language skills in the process. But I have to admit, I've probably learned more in the last month and a half on the road about what's going on in Russia than I did in the whole previous year. Traveling to different cities all the way across the country is really giving me a better idea of the state of things in Russia than just seeing the relatively westernized cities of St. Petersburg and Moscow could. Lisa ps - You can read brief bios for Gary and me on the Home Page.

To: Gary@f8.com From:Stig Blombergkfc@algonet.se Subject: Future travel I am planning to visit Tomck next week. I will go by train from Novosibirsk. I have a very simple question - but I have learned it can be of importance. 1) What is the temperature and weather ? 2) Maybe You have some examples of places which I "must" visit before I go back to Sweden. Thanks in advance for Your Email. Kindest regards Stig Blomberg Dear Stig, My advice is, bring all the warm clothes you have. But then again, I'm from Florida and you're from Sweden, so maybe for you that's unrealistic. At any rate,the weather here is very unpredictable, so be prepared for everything from beautiful fall weather to rain to blizzards. As far as "must-see" places, I'm not familiar with the Tomsk region, so I can't offer any wisdom about the area in particular. I would suggest, however, that you take any opportunity to spend some time with Russians in an informal setting, as the Russians themselves are one of the best reasons to spend any time here. Good luck and let us know how you like Tomsk! Lisa

To: Comment@f8.com From: graham r jones As a recent entrant into the world of photography, I have a keen interest in any feedback you may have. I also am particularly interested in your photobackground,i.e training and inspiration.

To: Gary@f8.com From: Scott Fagan Subject: Truly Amazing A year ago I started my writing career while living in Budapest working for Budapest Week. Covering the changes there in politics, social issues, etc. was one of the most amazing experiences of my life so I can imagine the time the two of you are having is truly mind-blowing. I'm back in the SF now writing for Ziff-Davis' Computer Life magazine and am constantly looking for ways to promote your site. I'm at a loss for words I love it so much. How do you guys break up the writing? Does Gary write one day and you another or do you both just write and let the guys here sort out what to post? Keep it up. The stories, the photos, all very exciting. Excellent job. Dear Scott, Thanks for the praise and encouragement, and also for spreading the word! About the writing: Gary is doing the chronicles section (the journal), and I am writing the road stories, the "in their words" excerpts, and the regional information. The writing is split up this way for a couple of reasons: first, since the project was developed as a photo essay site, the journal was planned to be from the point of view of the photographer. Also, having Gary write the journal while I do the rest gives a bit of variation in perspective. Glad you like the site! Thanks for your message. Lisa

To: Gary@f8.com From: mike matoso <> Subject: Gary I was just seeing if you can contact me through your email My address is mmatoso@trumpet.aix.calpoly.edu It is 2:15 October 12th.

To: default@f8.com From: Nadia Khoury-Dagher Subject: Have you read, dear Gary and Lisa, the pionnering books by Ella Maillart, a swiss writer who has done the same trip in the 20's. If not, I'm sure you can find the book in western Europe. Congratulations Nadia

To: Comment@f8.com From: Alex Balfour, london Subject: Good luck Just a note to wish you well on your travels. I'm enjoying following your progress: it beats Solzhenitsyn's il fated trip in the company of the BBC last year Regards, Alex Balfour, Freelance journalist, London

To: Gary@f8.com From: Melissa Stone <> Subject: Home Sweet Home Dear Lisa, YOU are awesome! So, how did you get the city stamped on your visa? Are you really Jewish now? What a fabulous adventure you must be having...this is all very impressive. you? Didn't see that Oct. 14 upload, and today is Oct. 16 already... Sure beats the hell out of sitting behind a desk at good ol' Kompass Resources, yeh? Just in case you were wondering what is happening in Washington, we are scheduled to host the "Million Man March" today, Monday, October 16. This is an unusual event because it is taking place on a workday, and is guaranteed to congest every major artery into the city for at least 24 hours with over a million black men who are visiting the capital of our nation to reclaim their power. Much of this has to do with the OJ Simpson verdict. (The jury declared him not guilty.) He is supposed to come to the march too, with other infamous black heros, including Marion Barry. Louis Farrakhan has stated that anyone who attends the march is clearly in support of his platforms. (that is really cheating, if you ask me) So, Lisa, dear, have fun where you are. Your photos are coming out great! Apparently the phone connectors are working just fine. Hope you are staying warm enough... Love, Melissa

To: default@f8.com From: sylvie marchandise Subject: les nouvelles salut Gary, j'ai survecu a deux mois d'Inde !J'ai pris beaucoup de photos. J,espere que tu vas bien. As-tu des nouvelles de Lena ? Je te dis a bientot a Paris, grosses bises. C,est super de pouvoir te suivre sur le net ! (avec l'ordinateur d'Anton).

To: Comment@f8.com From: Harv Dickey Subject: Hi there, If you go through Krasnoyarsk, check out Stolby. It is a national park with strangely shaped rocks as the prime attraction. I ran across their home page at: http://www.sable.krasnoyarsk.su/English/Stolby Hurricane Roxane is still sitting just west of Yucatan, trying to decide what to do. Hope it doesn't come to Pensacola. Two is enough.

To: default@f8.com From: Jeffrey D. Smith Subject: R U gettin' any? MAIL!!! have you been getting my Email ol' boy?! Good work, from what I've seen...simply terrifc! congrats! best to both of you!

To: Gary@f8.com From: Cheechwhiz@aol.com Subject: I like it ! Your Uncle Pitt would want me to tell you that "Gomer says 'Hey'" On the serious side, I hope that this can be a taste of the future on the Web. I haven't seen anything like this yet and can only hope for more. Travel safe...... Cheech

To: default@f8.com From: <> Subject:

To: default@f8.com From: vladik Bykov Subject: Chukotka Hi Gary, Lisa, This is really not a question, but sortofa inquiry. Ive always wanted to go to Chukotka, and see how the Chukchee live with their reindeer. Ive been trying to find contacts, but have not had any luck. I was wondering if you would know of someone there, or somehow help me out. Heres the comment: I thought your pictures and articles were really great. I hope that you have a chance to there again! Sincerely, Vladik

To: default@f8.com From: Konstantin Smekalin Subject: City of Chelyabinsk Hi, I don't know your exact route, but I assume that you may pass the city of Chelyabisk in Southern Urals on your way, since it's a major railroad connection. In fact, it's my native city, where I was born and lived until I was sixteen. My parents still live there, and my mom works as a math teacher for the local Technical University. As far as I know, their department is very likely hooked up to Internet thru high-speed connection, and they do have a couple of pretty decent PCs out there. I strongly encourage you to ask them for help, as it may speed up uploading your materials greatly, as compared to russian telephone lines. Call my mom, Larisa Smekalina, or my dad Yevgeni