November 1 - Chelyabinsk

True to our pattern in every other city, the last batch of material from Chelyabinsk was uploaded with barely a minute to spare. No matter how much time we give ourselves it always seems to go down to the wire. Battling with old phone lines through the night, we finished sending the last photo at 5:00 am -- ten and a half hours after we started. Our eyes glazed and brains fried we rushed to pack and say our goodbyes. We headed straight for the station to catch the 6:00 am bus to Yekaterinburg. After a freezing four-hour bus ride we boarded a warm train for Kazan. The little bunk beds were a welcome and familiar sight, and we both slept for most of the 16-hour journey.
November 3 - Kazan

Since the beginning of the trip one topic has repeatedly surfaced in our conversations with Russians: Chechnya. The military action brings almost universal condemnation from Russians of every political persuasion and social background. For many, the bloody handling of the breakaway republic typifies the incompetence of the Yeltsin government, for others, it makes them nostalgic for the days when peoples of many nationalities lived peacefully under the banner of the Soviet Union.

Our plan for Kazan was to do a story about a young veteran who had recently come back from Chechnya. We wanted to hear firsthand about his experiences and how he was coping with his return to civilian life.

Heavy snow followed by rain, turned the streets to a slushy swamp as we trudged to and fro researching our story. Lisa made countless phone calls to army officials who were always unavailable and never returned our calls. We tried to get an interview by going to the army offices in person, but again nobody would speak with us.

We met with several local journalists, none of whom could put us directly in touch with a soldier. Natasha, a young woman who writes for "Izvestia Tartarstana," practically wore out her rolodex trying to help us, but everywhere she turned she came up empty.




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